Porlamar – Downtown Shopping

I served from 64 to 66 in urban community development in Caripito, a small oil town in the east, just south of the coastal mountain range. I had a wonderful two years (with the usual ups and downs). In 1976 I returned to Venezuela and briefly visited “my” community. This return was an incredible experience. For me and the Venezuelans I had cared for most, it felt like I had left 10 days before not 10 years. I was stunned that their remembrances were as strong This Spring, when I decided to take my 14 year old son to back to Venezuela for Spring vacation, I knew that I would not be able to make those re-connections. I also knew that I was not ready to deal with Caracas and the disaster site, for which I have been raising funds. My goal was to show my son around and be open to share the special exchanges with those we met along the way.

Thanks to a revitalized Areopostal, it is possible to fly direct from Miami International Airport to Margarita and they have lots of very reasonably priced packages. It seemed like an ideal destination. I had visited Margarita and the Crafts Coop there several times and had fond memories of the island. (Anyone know where Pat Sabelhaus is these days?) However, various internet searches turned up little information about Venezuela so I had few expectations. I remembered Margarita as very dry, with quaint towns, historic sites to explore and beautiful Juan Griego bay.as mine. The connection stills feels strong today.

Porlamar, Margarita – Pampatar Section

When we got off the plane I knew things were going to be different!

The airport is very spiffy and modern. But, it was the Benneton ad in the terminal that clued me to the “new” Margarita. I lost $5 to my son because I had assured him there would be no McDonalds. In fact there are 4! Consumerism has hit the island—but there have to be people with enough money to support these international corporations. And, from overall impressions, even though the Venezuelan economy is in a deep, deep slump and the Bolivar was devalued again while we were there, it did seem from my 1960’s perspective that many Margarita folks were doing okay.

Margarita turned out to be a wonderful vacation destination with lots to do. We stayed at El Agua, a windward beach on the northeast corner. It’s 3 miles long with lots of beach bars, food stands and little shops to explore. This beach is just up from the surfing beach with lots of action. Around the corner by the airport is a world famous destination for windsurfers—El Yaque. It is supposed to be the 3rd best place for windsurfing in the world. There must have been 400 boards on the beach or in the water and lots of funky little hotels. Scattered along the coast are a growing number of destination resort complexes with requisite swimming pools, and even one with a golf course. Clearly Margarita is expanding its tourist destination attractions.

La Galeria, Margarita

Porlamar has grown up and out since I last was there 35 years ago. There are lots of new high-rise apartment buildings east of the city along the beach, with modern supermarkets, stores and other necessities for the “good life”. There are super highways from the airport which by-pass downtown. I spotted a Home Depot along the way. But, taking time to explore the central core of town was a very pleasant surprise. The old buildings, Plaza Bolivar, other squares and streets have not been destroyed. In fact, I saw excellent urban planning. Off the Plaza Bolivar a number of streets have been turned into pedestrian walkways with vibrant commercial sectors. (And, surprise of surprise, we were not hustled once!)

In the old section on the bay where the central market used to be, there is all sorts of new construction including a new hotel with marina and a “marketplace” (shades of our cities such as San Francisco, Boston, Baltimore) under construction which will definitely draw tourists and maybe revitalize the central core. I heard environmental concerns about this waterfront development and problems of displacement of local fishermen.

Even in this currently rundown residential area there were pleasantly landscaped walkways between streets provided for shaded sitting, decorative lighting and attractive facades for small businesses.

Politics are alive in Venezuela, with the delayed election for all elected positions coming up sometime soon. There were spray painted signs on every wall for Chavez and other spray painted signs supporting his opponent, Arias. And then more sprayed painted signs calling Arias a “judas”. People we talked with informally were concerned about Chavez but were not optimistic that any opposition could possibly be successful under the controls established by Chavez. Others indicated they were accepting of Chavez since it was necessary to clean out the corruption of the previous administrations. Who knows? It did make one wish for the good old days when Accion Democratica was the government and it’s challenge was defending the coast against incursions from Cuba-sponsored revolutionaries.

While we were there the newspapers reported that the emergency funds raised by the government just after the December disastrous floods have disappeared. The old patriotism button has resurfaced with the government renewing it’s claim for Guyana Esequibo ( 60% of neighboring Guyana). The US is clearly a bad guy. And there were still reverberations about the refusal of the government to let 2 US ships laden with emergency supplies land to help the survivors of the floods.

Some encounters evoked deep memories for me. Most important, the Venezuelans we dealt with were still the same kind, generous, warm and caring folks. I did not experience one incident of discomfort (except for our departure adventure). The roads were for the most part in good condition, but you never knew when you came around a corner whether there would be a pile of dirt in the road blocking a lane or a pothole the size of the car. Venezuelan drivers still cruise to a different drummer. While many are well mannered, others are outrageously dangerous. The bank system is still decentralized and difficult to navigate. On the other hand, cell phones were everywhere and some folks we talked with were mastering computers. The postal system is still “iffy”. We were assured that things were better so like dumb tourists we faithfully put our postcards in the mailbox at the hotel. It took a month for the cards to arrive—but I guess that is an improvement, before they would have never gotten here!

There was no loss of life in the December floods on Margarita. But there was extensive flooding and mudslides. For those of you who know the Virgen del Valle church, it was 4 feet deep in mud. I assume that the potholes and piles of dirt on the roads were also leftovers from the storm. In fact, I heard of several stories of people who were displaced from La Guiria, Macuto , Caracas and other hard hit central areas had moved to Margarita because of its expanding economic base and available housing.

Canaima Falls

Before we left, my son and I took a two-day trip to Canaima. There is a new airline, Linea Turistica Aereotuy, which runs flights with tour guides to various destinations, such as Los Roques islands and Canaima. Our trip was incredible. We flew from Margarita via Maturin (now a large city with a modern international airport) to the camp at Canaima.

Salto Sapo with the Tepuis of the Gran Sabana – The “Lost Continent”

The lodge at the lagoon is still very attractive and not too large. We went across the lagoon in a large dug out, landed on an island and walked to an incredible water falls ( Salto Sapo) which you can walk under. It was very scary but we did it! The force of the falls was awesome. A path from the falls goes to the top showcasing an absolutely incredible 360 degree view of the falls, lagoon and mesa-like tepuys. (I don’t know that I will ever get back to that place, but I know I will never forget its beauty.) From Canaima we were flown past Angel Falls to a jungle lodge named Arekuna on the Caroni River. What a place! It was 5-star elegance in the wilderness.

Flying into Margarita – Playa El Agua

The only difficult time we had on our trip was our departure. In all my travels, I have never had such an experience! Our flight was subjected to extreme measures. There were at least 15-uniformed Guardia in the departure lounge. As is usual these days, we passed through the metal detector, which I know was working since it went off on the person in front of me.

Then we were forced to have a body search. Quite a surprise to the American tourists who were used to being treated with respect! Then, before actually boarding the plane, we stood in line for an hour and a half while the Guardia inspected all our documents and carry on luggage.

The only difficult time we had on our trip was our departure. In all my travels, I have never had such an experience! Our flight was subjected to extreme measures. There were at least 15-uniformed Guardia in the departure lounge. As is usual these days, we passed through the metal detector, which I know was working since it went off on the person in front of me. Then we were forced to have a body search. Quite a surprise to the American tourists who were used to being treated with respect! Then, before actually boarding the plane, we stood in line for an hour and a half while the Guardia inspected all our documents and carry on luggage.

We were asked for additional photo identification to match our passports. Everything was taken out of our carry on luggage. Linings were slit. The stories, which passed down the line, were astonishing. It was a wonder that one of the passengers didn’t loose it. There was targeting: a young man who had come by himself to go windsurfing was a target-- they wanted to know everything about his stay in Venezuela, who he talked to, etc.; an African American (who was on his honeymoon) was told that he was “ not an American” and was questioned why was he lying. Finally, after this intense inspection, we were again subjected to a metal detector and random body searches.

Sunset over Caroni seen from the Arekuna Lodge

Salto Babas on the Caroni River with

Pemon village in background

I cannot image that anyone on this flight will ever return to Venezuela or ever suggest to their friends that it would make a great vacation destination. It was clear that it was more than cautious screening. There was a strong anti-American feel to the whole experience. Our experience was in sharp contrast to the departure of German tourists who left 15 minutes before us without any inspection by the Guardia.

While the “goodbye” from official Venezuela was unpleasant and scary, my son and I do plan to return. The people we met and the places we saw made the trip worthwhile and one we plan to do again.